There is no actual Swellendam Wine Route, but in the rebellious nature of a little town that has the guts to call itself a Republic, I’m going to go ahead and group the vineyards around the Greater Swellendam region into a virtual wine route. After all, Swellendam Wine Route sounds far sexier than Swellendam Municipality.
On the recent #swellenblog tourism campaign, we discovered that the Swellendam region has a little more in its vats than berry liqueur. We tasted unusual varietals at Sijnn Wines in Malgas before heading over the mountain to Joubert-Tradauw in Barrydale, and on to Van Loveren and Zandvliet in the Robertson Wine Valley, which is a legitimate wine region with over 50 wine estates. Here is a taste of the 4 vastly different estates that we had the pleasure of visiting.
Sijnn Wines
The little hamlet of Malgas is home to Sijnn Wines (pronounced “sane”), named after the original Khoi word for the Breede River. This monopole estate is the only wine producer to boast the “Origin of Malgas” title, making it very unique in South Africa and adding to the challenge of establishing a wine “route”. It’s well worth a visit for its delicious varietals and olives, and beautiful elevated view from the stony mountain slopes down to the winding river below and the distant Potberg Mountains that form a barrier to the sea.
It took me a while to pinpoint why Sijnn didn’t feel like a wine estate. It was only when winemaker, David Trafford (of De Trafford in Stellenbosch), waved his hand to the stony hill of bushy shrubs that I realised he was pointing to the vineyards. Unlike regular trellised vines, Sijnn is the first wine estate I’ve visited that grows bush vines, and when you take a closer look at the intensity of the rocky soil, you may also wonder what on earth made David consider this original grain and ostrich farm as a vineyard. David obviously gets this question a lot. As he uncorked the first bottle of wine, he explained how the “pudding stones” and fractured shale reminded him of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in France and how he was curious to see what wines this terroir could produce. In short, his plan worked and they have planted some unique Mediterranean varieties, including Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, Viognier, Mouvedre, Syrah, Roussanne, and Chenin Blanc. They are also looking to plant Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, and Grenache. I suggest a walk through the vineyards to see just how incredible this piece of land is.
I LOVE: Sijnn is pure class in a rustic, rural, and totally unique setting. You won’t find all these varietals at many other wine estates in South Africa.
Open for sales and tastings on Friday and Saturday from 10am – 1pm | 021 880 1611 | info@sijnn.co.za
Joubert-Tradauw
Our next wine stop was Joubert-Tradauw, a small cellar outside Barrydale in the Klein Karoo – roughly 100km from Sijnn Wines. Aside from the incredible distance from Malgas, Barrydale’s location over the Langeberg Mountains puts it on the more popular Route 62, which happens to be the longest wine route in the world and is even sexier than “Swellendam Wine Route”. The Tradouw Pass between Swellendam and Barrydale is an exquisite mountain road that follows the path of the Tradourivier rock pools in the deep valley below, so make sure you stop at the lookout and keep an eye open for the hidden waterfall.
Painted in an autumn palette of vivid greens and yellows, rusty oranges and reds, and purples as deep as their Syrah, Joubert-Tradauw’s first impression was as appealing as their food and wine. After a tasting in the red-walled tasting room and a peek into the cool mouldy-walled cellar, we were treated to an exquisite spread of fresh “Proe van die Karoo” tapas that paired elegantly with the wines. The heavy laden tables were set on a carpet of pebbles and ancient oak leaves, and sunlight filtered gently through the reed afdaks. It was a feast for the senses with every colourful bite bursting with flavour.
I LOVE: The R62 Unplugged papsak is an ingenious way to enjoy wine on the go. I can’t imagine a more convenient way to take wine on a hike or picnic. The tapas were also phenomenal.
Cellar and Deli open Monday to Friday from 9am – 5pm, and Saturday from 10am – 4pm. Open Sunday by special appointment only. | 082 304 9000 | beate@joubert-tradauw.com
Van Loveren
The R60 route between Swellendam and Ashton is one of the most beautiful drives in the Western Cape. A short detour off the R60, halfway between Bonnievale and Robertson on the R317, lies Van Loveren Family Cellar. This family-friendly estate is for Wine Lovers more than Connoisseurs, placing less focus on the technical side and more emphasis on the laughter and conversation that happens around wine tasting.
With 8 fun wine and food pairing options that make wine tasting a less intimidating experience (and even cater to non-wine drinkers), Van Loveren gives you the freedom to decide what you like or not. They have over 54 wines on offer, so if you can’t find something you like, you are what we deem a hopeless case. Aside from the revamped tasting room, you can have a meal at Christina’s Bistro (closed Tuesdays), as well as hike, mountain bike, and enjoy birding around the estate.
Van Loveren has a fascinating history that revolves largely around a strong and somewhat rebellious (it’s a recurring theme in Swellendam) woman. The original farmland was bought in 1937 and called “Goudmyn F” (Goldmine F) as the Retief family who bought it were constantly teased about the exorbitant price they paid for it. “F” is the ninth letter in the alphabet and was chosen because of the 9 children in the family. But Jean van Zyl (who married into the Retief family) was a superstitious lady who didn’t like the idea of F standing for “foolish” or “failure”, so she decided to change it to “van Loveren” after her ancestor, Christina van Loveren, who came to South Africa by ship in the 1930s. To do so, Jean amended her surname to Van Loveren in the phonebook – which at the time cemented your official name – then made a plate and secured it to the door of the estate. Christina’s original chest can be seen in the tasting room.
I LOVE: The selection of wine and food pairings that even cater for non-alcoholic drinkers and kids. I chose the Four Cousins Fan and the granita and fennel pairing was a taste sensation!
Tasting Room opens Monday to Friday from 8:30am – 5pm, Saturday from 9:30am – 3:30pm, and Sunday from 11am – 2pm (3pm in December) | 023 615 1505 | tastings@vanloveren.co.za
Zandvliet
Between Van Loveren and the village of Ashton lies an unassuming wine estate with a lot to brag about. Aside from creating some of South Africa’s finest Shiraz, Zandvliet Wine Estate is also a Thoroughbred Stud farm that gave birth to South Africa’s most legendary racehorse, Pocket Power. From walking into the tasting room to find that Stubbs the dog had devoured the entire chorizo platter on our behalf, to climbing into the paddock for a closer inspection of Spirit the Stud, we were treated to interesting anecdotes of the Zandvliet and de Wet family history from Director, Paul de Wet, and brand ambassador, Werner Els.
Werner explained how varietals like different types of soils, and how the chalky limestone terroir makes the Robertson region ideal for Chardonnay and Shiraz. We tasted our way through 6 wines, from the easy drinking “My best friend…” Shiraz Rosé to the port-style VLW Cape Vintage Shiraz 2011, and many of us could not resist taking home a bottle or more of our favourite wine.
The estate was quiet, but a giant marquee was up and waiting to host the crowds at the following weekend’s Wacky Wine festival. Paul explained how the region’s top restaurants and guesthouses are always filled with overseas tourists, because “The Berg” seems to be a barrier that prevents Capetonians (who typically don’t like to drive too far) from exploring the region more. Yet there is evidence that Capetonians are visiting the region to satisfy a desire for new experiences. It’s a trend I hope continues whether there is a food and wine festival happening or not.
I LOVE: Although there is no kitchen to prepare food pairings, the estate is a perfect spot to enjoy a packed picnic lunch with a delicious bottle of Zandvliet wine.
Tasting Room opens Monday to Friday from 9am – 5pm, and Saturday and Public Holidays from 10am – 2pm. (Closed on Sunday, Good Friday, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day) | 023 615 1146 | info@zandvliet.co.za
The vineyards surrounding Swellendam are too far for a day trip when you consider the total driving time is anywhere from 4 – 7 hours there and back. But with the range of exceptional wine estates, restaurants, and accommodations around, the Swellendam region is an ideal weekend getaway.
Which wine estate appeals most to you?
Disclaimer: #swellenblog was a media bloggers trip organised by Swellendam Tourism. I was there by invitation on behalf of LekkeSlaap and did not pay for any of the abovementioned activities. All thoughts and photographs are my own.
